January 10, 2014 London
Here, for example, he was talking about the journey beginning indoors, in a cozy domestic space, a notion that translated into an incredible Shar Pei-like cocoon of fake fur. The outside world asserted itself in a coat of angora, mohair, and wool, collaged like a distressed urban wall. "Architectural layers," Chalayan called them. And, in something of a conceptual leap, the designer visualized makeup as a layer for the body, in a print made up of a jumble of cosmetic palettes. It was beautiful.
That's always the thing with Chalayan. All the arcane personal theorizing is capable of producing clothes that make a direct, graphic, seductive appeal to the senses. He knows how to add just the right amount of flattering structure to slouchy, sexy clothes. Here they were. There's always time for a second look.