Henry Holland's Pre-Fall House of Holland muse is a naughty English boarding school girl whose extracurricular activities (horses, boy bands, and boys in general) clearly have the edge over studying. A far-too-short scalloped-hem tweed skirt conjured memories of headmistresses screaming bloody murder, as did a pair of teeny-tiny denim shorts with frayed edges and embroidery. Meanwhile, varsity jackets got a refresh with sequin embellishments and a new three-quarter length. Collaborating with illustrator Hattie Stewart, Holland produced some hilarious jersey pieces inspired by the movie poster for True Romance—required viewing for angst-ridden adolescents everywhere. Then there was the jogging suit emblazoned with the word giddy-up. If anything can distract a boy-crazy teenager, it's a pony.

The collection had all of Holland's quirky hallmarks, but the quality appears to have seriously grown up. The wools are from an English mill, while a sumptuous teddy bear-like fabric was woven into a blazer and used extensively on hats and scarves. The collection's clear-cut winner, a silk jacquard Lurex-shot pantsuit, was artfully created from a repeat pattern of prefect badges. Holland reports that he's opening up shop-in-shops in Bangkok and China. Also coming soon: a line of jewelry and stick-on nail art.