's love affair with the corset appears to be well and truly over. Following in the footsteps of a Spring collection devoted to bias dressing, he focused on draping and "hybridized" separates for Pre-Fall, with somewhat mixed results. Spiral-cut ruffle dresses in mismatched dark autumn florals looked great with mannish shoes, while foulard-print blouses came with ribbed cuffs borrowed from athletic gear—a subtle detail that gave the pieces a sporty mien. Yes, there were a few of the body-limning sheaths he's known for, but they had more ease than usual, thanks to the way he injected drape by splicing jersey knits with silk. A clingy black number with a lustrous inset in the bodice was particularly gorgeous. Wu took a similar approach to his evening suits, cutting a tuxedo jacket like a cardigan and, on the bottom, pairing it with slouchy silk track pants.
It's hard to argue with a collection designed to feel, as Wu put it, as comfortable as "slipping on a sweater." There were several covetable cashmeres here, as well as an oversize ribbed style worn with a long beaded-tulle skirt. We're all for designers getting out of their comfort zones, but that look in particular was too close for comfort to Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy. A golden silk slipdress with a spiraling seam was Wu doing what he does best.