The clear standout in Jean Paul Gaultier's new Pre-Fall collection was a white fur chubby featuring one of his caricature sketches. Given the success of the designer's retrospective exhibition (still on display at the Brooklyn Museum), it was clever of JPG to showcase some of his own original art. In addition to that winning fur, the contour line drawing also appeared on an intarsia sweater.

For the most part, Gaultier explored familiar territory this season. He updated signatures such as satin bomber jackets and trench dresses with defined waists, and experimented with trompe l'oeil layering in the form of Bermuda shorts attached to slim pants. His leather bras made their way into the mix, too, and one was styled over a chiffon T-shirt shown with baggy menswear trousers. A pleasant surprise was the lineup's abundance of practical outerwear, including proper parkas and a peacoat that was positively girlish paired with a crisp button-up, kilt skirt, and knee-high stockings. A chunky safety-pin brooch added a subversive final touch that kept the outfit from looking too proper.