"Inseparable separates" define Jonathan Simkhai's Pre-Fall collection. Well, they actually are separable, but the idea was to make sure they'd look so good together that his girl would want to buy them both. "I love the idea of wearing matching separates to a wedding," said Simkhai, who is acutely aware that Pre-Fall drops in the midst of matrimonial season. (He also chose to lay off of coats, given the warm weather in May, June, and July.) One look, a grayish-blue leather crop top and pencil skirt, achieved what he was after. While the matching ensemble was a subtle statement—formal enough for a not-so-formal wedding—each piece could easily be worn on its own.

That pale blue was really the only color Simkhai worked with: Everything else was black, white, and cream. "I wanted a refresh," he said of the clean palette. In terms of silhouette and fabric, there was a lot of what he's done before: below-the-knee pencil skirts, fitted bra tops, and maybe, most important, sporty netting, which is becoming an important signature. Designers often look to tennis, surfing, and skating for inspiration, but there's something very "basketball" about Simkhai's athletic pieces, which is fun and different.

Standouts included a netted black skirt paired with a matching tee. "It's sexy, but not vulgar," he said. But the sexiest moment might have been the designer's black-and-white ribbed knit skirt and top, which molds the wearer's figure into an hourglass. Really, a Kanye West-styled Kim Kardashian would look great in this stuff. And Simkhai should take that as a major compliment.