The collection notes for Consuelo Castiglioni's Pre-Fall referred to "gritty expeditions," casting the Marni woman as an urban explorer. That would explain the somber substance, the almost masculine sturdiness of the clothes. Sure, there were flurries of comparatively lighthearted frivolity—plissé silks, dyed foxtail stoles and fur scarves, mini lengths in girlish pink, an abstract floral print, a leopard spot! —but they were largely concealed beneath heavier fabrics, stiffer silhouettes, and weighty layering, like jackets over coats. Solid accessories anchored the grit with a flourish, like Chelsea boots with gold toecaps or a bag in pony based on Castiglioni's own bicycle bag.

Never mind Pre-Fall, this proposal often felt Pre-Winter. Those drawstring shorts in shearling, for instance—and the other shearlings, shaggy all over or shaved in front and shaggy in back. The last few Marni collections have taken a more serious, structured stance, possibly suggesting a shift of sensibility in Castiglioni herself. This one certainly did nothing to alter that impression.