In retrospect, could the role of creative director of Moschino have gone to anyone other than Jeremy Scott? Seeing the new Moschino collection, you couldn't help thinking that this was a head-hunting job done exceedingly well: Scott, after all, shares a subversive sense of humor with house founder Franco Moschino, who died in 1994, and as the clothes and accessories here proved, he has a feeling for the brand's particularly Italian angle on chic, too. Everything was molto sexy, molto luxurious, molto funny.

Scott's idea to turn iconic ready-to-wear looks, like a Perfecto motorcycle jacket, into bags wasn't exactly subtle. The same went for his reversal of that strategy, which found him adapting familiar accessory elements, such as a gold handbag chain, for use in his clothes. But the designs that emerged had a lot of charm—they made you smile. His silk-satin tee, made to look like a giant garment tag, was a particularly sly treatment of this theme. There were other grin-worthy efforts, too, like the trenchcoat with a negligee sewn on top, and the stilettos seamed like baseballs, stamped "MOSCHINO Official Major League" on the heel. That was an understated instance of the line's logo-mania; Scott, a former Moschino intern, took obvious glee in splashing the house signatures, and its logo, everywhere he could. Judging by this collection, it's a logo due to become very, very relevant again.