Maxime Simoëns' logo is a bar code, and he likes to incorporate it into his collections. For Pre-Fall, there was a bar-code buckle on each matte-black leather belt. He also created zippers that mimicked the look of a bar code. Simoëns said he chose the thing because it represents his generation, but also because it's black and white, his two favorite shades in the world. "I like things that are irregular and regular, matte and satin, transparent and opaque," said the designer in his New York showroom. Black and white clearly fall into the opposites bucket. He used them generously this season, most notably on a strapless dress with a fitted bodice and one deep, wide pleat, as well as on a white silk gown with a sheer black panel at one side, the sex appeal turned way down by a pointy black collar.

Simoëns has a fondness for the linear, as evidenced in his fractured-glass print and crackled leather accents. He likes his edges jagged, which worked really well on his wrap skirts and body-con dresses, whose seams created unexpected shapes. But sometimes there was a question of taste. The bar-code belts, for instance, were too obvious. On the other hand, the zippers were just right. Simoëns has the ability to create precise clothes that fit the body well. That might be all the branding he needs.