January 14, 2014 Paris
Yet he also seemed content to stay within a single register—modernizing a loden redingote by creating an inverted-pleat, single-vent combination back, or adding a horizontal placket and pockets to a black silk georgette maxi shirtdress. Outerwear paneled in plush rabbit fur and a gray sweatshirt with a raised No. 21 logo were at opposite ends of the luxe-accessible continuum; and yes, those platform sneaker booties confirm that Dell'Acqua is not above a cool crowd-pleaser. Add in the lace butterfly appliqués, floral-printed satin, and shaggy mohair coats and this was a collection in which the parts were stronger than the sum. But, given how strong the parts were, let's not dock points; let's instead hold out that Dell'Acqua is indulging all his creative impulses now in order to finesse and focus on what's to come. He's lucky to have this as his head start.