A lady cannot live on lacy silk slipdresses alone, as tempting as the notion is. Growing the Nina Ricci brand means expanding the hyper-feminine look and feel of the clothes and accessories in new directions. Urban and sporty were words that cropped up as Peter Copping discussed his new Pre-Fall collection for the label. Both applied to a zip-front black leather and lace jacket and its matching miniskirt. If it was a surprise to see those pieces in Copping’s lineup, it was not an unwelcome one. He handled a fitted motorcycle jacket in a shaggy fake fur with the same confidence.

The rest of the collection found the designer exploring more familiar territory. He’s always had a playful touch with knits. Today’s highlight was a heavy-gauge crewneck with a subtly nipped-in waist, although a tiny cardi with a cutaway back covered in lace was a close second. Florals are rarely missing from a Nina Ricci collection. This time around, Copping manipulated them on the computer to create the blurry, fuzzed-out prints he used on a pair of wispy dresses. Flowers featured on a pair of gorgeous evening columns, too. Their long sleeves conveyed an assured ease, as did Copping's other after-dark proposition: silk pajama pants paired with a patchwork lace T-shirt.