Paul & Joe's Sophie Albou-Mechaly showed ten distinct coat styles for Pre-Fall—and that didn't include the double-face cashmere wraps and capes that would make for desirable early-season outerwear. Since this delivery happens in three stages beginning in May, the collection moves through as many stories. The first: predominantly graphic black and limestone, whether expressed as a poppy print with metallic shading or oversize polka dots. The next introduced complementary tones of burgundy and dusty blue, as well as a feather print that Albou-Mechaly interpreted from a silk scarf belonging to her mother.

The third placed more emphasis on soigné slouch—oversize leather culottes, elongated knits—and it is here that we found the aforementioned coats. One standout in navy got textural interest from black shearling paneled like a gilet; another cropped style in sheepskin and leather was cleverly reversible. The hooded duffel in punchy rose might be a season too late for fashion's early adopters. Or it may just prolong a trend that is not ready to retire. Either way, let's not forget the deceivingly well-crafted sweatshirt covered in a pattern of cutout half-moons filled in from beneath with patches of ivory wool. It was the collection's sleeper hit.