The bold, flat, linear quality of her designs made Roksanda Ilincic's Pre-Fall offering look like clothes for a princess in a fairy tale as drawn by a Soviet constructivist artist. That dichotomy—whimsical vs. hard-edged—defined the collection. Here, a huge coat cut from the actual mohair fur that Steiff uses for real teddy bears (toys, that is). There, a dress adorned with huge, industrial, rubberized flowers. Soft vs. stiff, casual vs. formal…and so it played out through high vs. low, fit vs. flare, feminine vs. masculine. The result couldn’t help but be striking because of the collection's swoop and drape.

Ilincic said she'd started with the idea of wrapping yourself in the coziness of home. So it was blankets and other domestic accoutrements that influenced the substance of the fabrics. A feminine crepe blouse, for instance, had felted cuffs. And the same stiffness prevailed when Ilincic folded back her wraps and double-faced them to create dramatic two-dimensional geometries in dresses and skirts. Elongated monumentalism is something of a signature for this designer. Rendered here in a seventies palette of jade, purple, orange, maroon, and royal blue, her clothes made more of a powerful statement than ever. The men's shoes—by Nicholas Kirkwood—rammed the point home.