Although there's plenty to be said for signature silhouettes, in the case of Rachel Zoe, lean, seventies menswear à la Bianca Jagger has become less of a trademark and more of a lifeline. The über-stylist's Pre-Fall offering gave the distinct impression of déjà vu—despite citing inspirations slightly farther flung than Studio 54. (It's Carnaby Street and Portobello Road tomboys this go-around).

The collection leaned heavily on the same slim, fit-and-flare trousers, tailored blazers, and disco-luxe maxi gowns. While flirty A-line dresses in neoprene, with mesh accents, may be untrod territory for Zoe, they felt familiar on the heels of the sporty Spring runways—and more than a touch out of place alongside many purely vintage-inspired pieces. There's no denying that the look Zoe does often, she does well, but whether it's one her clientele will continue to go for season after season is up for debate.