"There's something that I'm smelling in the air," Thakoon Panichgul said at the lookbook shoot for his Pre-Fall Addition collection. Could that have been fall leaves? Mulled cider? The collection had a distinctly autumnal tilt. "There's more coziness," he offered, toying with an oversize scarf poncho. The scarf motif recurred throughout: a wrapped skirt dangled tassels, oversize scarves draped over several looks. It tempted new coinages. A scarfy feeling, was it? Thakoon laughed. "A scarfy feeling," he confirmed.

He'd begun the collection exploring plaids and florals, the former both literally, in plaid-print wrap skirts layered over plaid cigarette pants (layering being an Addition constant) and imaginatively, with geometric appliqués on a silk blouse extrapolating the theme. Florals were pieced into sweatshirts or printed darkly on silk. The mix of the two prints gave a hit of nineties college campuses, a smell that has definitely been in the air of late.

But Panichgul's collections rarely hold too tight to a single theme. There were twisted oxford shirtdresses that played on his experiments of last season. And a slouchy, carrot-shaped pant silhouette struck a "mannish, seventies" note, in the designer's words. There was a lot to digest in these layers, and, as often happens, some moments of over-complication. But as often happens as well, there were plenty of smart pieces throughout. And what is Addition, after all, if not more, more, more?