December 12, 2013 New York
There's still a heady enough hit of capital-F fashion for anyone who cares to find it here, albeit in a milder dose. Theyskens' basics are not necessarily the ones you'd expect; he was enthusing, for example, over a fine-gauge, mock-turtleneck cropped sweater—essentially a dickey—that he said he wanted to style into every look. What's more, he's retained an affection for a slouchy, gamine theory of layering and the barest suggestion of vintage (like the weathered-looking A-line skirts in washed silk). The palette remained Belgian somber—black, white, oyster, gray—and the emphasis was on styling, but not to a fault. (Theyskens showed most looks with oversized Margiela-style belts, but took care to emphasize that they'd work just as well without.) At the more elaborate end of the spectrum, like abstract paillette-embroidered cotton/wool dresses, Theyskens seemed most in his old element. But it was the simpler pieces here that were most in line with the new—that is to say, old—theory of Theory.