January 14, 2014 New York
The look of Giambattista Valli's clothes has been ladylike from the beginning, but lately he's been pursuing a more laid-back effect. There were the Birkenstock-style sandals for Resort, and now he's liking the look of a soft-soled loafer. He showed it with everything from a leopard jacquard coat, shirt, and cropped trousers set to a little sequined cocktail dress, and even a long charcoal gray flannel gown. Valli's new attitude dovetails with what's happening in other collections this season. Ease is an important message for Pre-Fall. He got his point across with sweatshirts in duchesse silk and leather leggings with oversize zips at the ankles. The swingy circle skirts, in particular, were a nice merging of Valli past and future. His lookbook models did have dyed-pink hair, but in the end he didn't veer all that far from his original MO. The collection was also chock-full of über-luxe furs.
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