January 07, 2014 New York
Expect the unexpected. That saying suited the new Veronique Branquinho collection to a T: The designer's emphasis this season was on creating surprising contrasts in her clothes, but she went about it in a way that made those mash-ups seem natural, and even inevitable. Seamless is the correct word, for instance, to describe some of Branquinho's standout looks here, in which she deployed an Italian technique for reweaving fabrics together to make one new textile. The boldest execution was found in her short shift dresses, horizontally striped in panels of varying color and texture, but she also used the method well in her cozy mohair coats and checked wool trousers. Elsewhere, the mash-ups were more conceptual, with a natty wool trench recut as a cape, and crispy poplin shirting festooned with, as the designer put it, "historical sleeves." The sleeve construction was really impressive, but—as is characteristic for Branquinho—the effect was sotto voce. This was a collection that rewarded close attention.
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