used the term "luxe brut" to explain her Pre-Fall offering—an intriguing premise. A wide spectrum of textures confirmed the luxe part: a perforated gabardine, raw felted wool manipulated à la Joseph Beuys, a salt-and-pepper tweed coated in a semigloss lacquer, and knits lined with jersey for smoothness against the skin. Her interest in the strange collage photography of little-known Dadaist Hannah Höch gave a specific reference point for the brut part of the equation. More generally, Leroy understands that notions of simple and detailed are not mutually exclusive. Her new "plastron" dress, for instance, can be unzipped down the front to reveal an inner silk underpinning, taking the piece from office to apéro
. A minimalist belt in curved metal gave strong waist emphasis to most of her looks. And she spent time thinking through her mid-century palette of brick rose, pale blue, champagne, and navy—insisting she already had the deep "Poliakoff" red in her head before visiting the artist's color-saturated retrospective at the Musée d'Art Moderne.
Leroy experienced the ripple effect of Kardashian fame last year when Kim was photographed wearing one of the designer's barely-there nude bodysuits. A similar version reappeared here, this time in a honeycomb knit cashmere as fine as a hairnet.