M Missoni may be Missoni's younger diffusion line, but the overall attitude is plenty sophisticated. "This season's mood is ethereal. It's a game of contrasts," said creative director Angela Missoni of the new Pre-Fall lineup. Per usual, she incorporated several of the house's signature splashy prints, giving them an Art Deco spin. The kaleidoscopic motifs added a graphic zing to swingy coats; cropped, relaxed trousers; and flared frocks that had a slightly retro, mod appeal. Elsewhere, Missoni's best-selling space-dyed knits (fun rompers and pullovers) were overlaid with feminine black lace.

The real news here was the unexpected use of a neutral color palette. Soft lilac and ivory hues highlighted the textures of croc-stamped jacquard pieces, as well as a cropped jacket and matching kicky skirt cut from a bonded, nubby wool that resembled shearling. Ladylike accessories including top-handle satchels and patent, over-the-knee boots polished off the look. A recently opened boutique in Macao (to be followed by two additional stores in Beijing and one in Hong Kong this spring) further proves that M Missoni is all grown up.