Chitose Abe launched Sacai Luck in 2006 as a lingerie collection, and over the years it's evolved into a full-blown line. A handy way to think about the label is as the Miu Miu to her signature brand's Prada. It's less a lower-priced diffusion offering than it is a place for Abe to experiment with more playful looks. Hybrids are her defining preoccupation at Sacai, and they're just as important here, only she's less concerned about creating new silhouettes and more focused on having fun.

A dress was pieced together from flannel tartan and sparkly leopard-spot jacquard; the effect was grunge princess. Elsewhere, Abe tweaked expectations, adding a sporty drawstring waistband to menswear trousers and a lace-trimmed silk slip underneath a pinstriped pencil skirt with a deep slit. A button-down shirt and long, narrow wool skirt was actually a trompe l'oeil dress. Among the lineup's many cool sweaters, a brightly colored, patterned poncho and a patchworked fisherman's knit stood out.

Versatility was built into a lot of the outerwear: The sleeves of a leather biker jacket, for example, zipped off so it could double as a vest. Clever thinking also informed Abe's new shoe collaboration. Her lambswool-lined Vans are sure to be a hit.