June 05, 2013 New York
Where it felt like Wang was putting his sporty imprint on things was with pieces like the short shorts, which came draped across the front or with wings down the side seams, the bolero-cum-bra-tops, and the petal bustiers sliced into midriff-baring bandeaux. As a rule, these were a tad clunky, even if all of fashion has embraced exposed abs.
The dresses were more assured. A white number with a band draped across the shoulder and a bodice that was as fitted as the back was loose looked both of-the-moment and elegant in a timeless way. Same went for a black style that we were told riffed on an archival bustier dress. In Wang's hands, it was much softer, not really a bustier at all with its open back.
Bucket hats covered in shredded plastic and sandals embroidered in the same stuff were unexpected, and they may be too quirky to inspire widespread lust. In some ways, it feels like Wang is still feeling himself into his role here, which is only to be expected. Overall, though, this collection—and those dresses in particular—represented another step forward.