Chado Ralph Rucci dropped the "Chado" back in April and is now known simply as Ralph Rucci. The name change was the beginning of a big push for the New York brand. Today, Rucci was on set at the brand's first advertising campaign in ages; the Steven Meisel-lensed images will appear in September magazines. Later this month, the company is moving out of its Soho studio for a larger space in Chelsea. And on the racks, there was the beginning of a knits collection that the designer plans to develop and separate into its own business.

More proof that Rucci has growth on his mind: the Rorschach print of his own design that appeared on everything from a slinky matte jersey tank dress to a cotton canvas jacket with the sculptural properties of an upholstery fabric. Rucci has seemed fairly print-averse recently, but a designer simply can't ignore them when they're so big at retail. Resort also finds Rucci experimenting with silhouette; an asymmetric, undulating neckline appeared on everything from a pair of silk tanks layered over full-legged pants to a white sequined evening dress.

Other than that, there were new takes on old favorites: silk shantung separates in jewel tones, jackets with sheer mesh insets front and back, a dramatic white cotton blouse with tone-on-tone embroidery inspired by the work of the artist Louise Nevelson. A few pieces looked especially sharp. They were a satin coat in a still of-the-moment python print, and gowns in chiffon-weight lamé with cutouts at the midriff.