June 17, 2013 London
The lace was delicate, sensual, and slightly sinister, almost like a viral web. That's exactly the kind of mixed message he excels at. Fall 2013 was such a sprawling summation of his career to date that it suggested this collection, his first since he signed with French fashion behemoth Kering (formerly PPR), would be the opening page in a brand-new chapter. That didn't happen. Kane is so original a thinker that there'll always be the shock of the new (here, the lace), but Resort's most instantly irresistible looks—sheath dresses snared with "paint smears" of transparent tape—were actually throwbacks to the body-consciousness of his first collection seven years ago. And the huge diamond buttons reappeared from Fall 2010. They worked equally on a chambray jean jacket or a little peplumed item in puppytooth.
Which is always the way that Christopher Kane covers the waterfront, from casually girlish to precisely adult. In between, he allows himself experiments that defy taste and logic, because weird science is what compels him in his quest. It's thrilling to think he might just be getting started.