Dennis Basso played with 3-D techniques for Resort, from the pretty floral chiffon appliqués scattered on many of the gowns to the cropped jackets done in his preferred medium, fur. Even the alligator—another favorite material, featured in colors ranging from gray to buttercup—was pearlized, creating depth on vests and handbags.

Oddly enough, Basso's focus on multiple dimensions gave the collection a real lightness. And also a feeling of youth, something that many designers have emphasized this season. (Particularly designers whose customer base, like Basso's, is maturing fast.) "It's sophisticated but still young," Basso said. He was right. Any young woman would be happy to wear the fit-and-flare dress adorned with masses of silvery 3-D flowers, or the navy off-the-shoulder number embroidered with daisies, the breakout flower of the season.

It's somewhat harder to imagine a twentysomething walking around in a white fur chubby, but the addition of delicate lace insets and a tiny lace border made it more plausible.