Escada has been working to reestablish its visibility and relevance over the past several seasons. The new Resort lineup is a step in the right direction, but Daniel Wingate and his design team could stand to kick it up if they really want to raise the label's fashion cred. Seaside towns dotting the Mediterranean coast served as the collection's jumping-off point, and that inspiration translated to a color palette of sun-drenched pastel hues—canary yellow, blush rose, and powder blue—and the faded Liguria tile print, which turned up on a cap-sleeve sheath.

Highlights included pretty blouses and pencil skirts adorned with feminine ruffles, as well as a pin-tucked day dress that looked like it could have been cut from delicate organza but was in fact an ultra-gauzy knit. In the eveningwear category, slim tuxedos (some decorated with the house's signature gold-bullion embroidery at the wrists) and an off-the-shoulder number with floating seams looked fresh. The biggest standouts were the cropped jackets done in perforated, laser-cut, or basket-woven leather. Escada's committed customer is reportedly responding to more detailed pieces like those lately, so Wingate and co. ought to keep them coming.