Henry Holland's collections are never made for shrinking violets, but this one in particular seemed designed for the girl occupying center stage. Indeed, Holland's inspiration this time out was openly stagy: Not only was he referencing Motown girl groups and the atmosphere of sixties-era variety shows, like Ed Sullivan's, but Holland even took one of his prints straight from an old Jackson 5 concert backdrop. That print, a "psychedelic parquet," as he termed it (though he confessed that someone else had come up with that apt phrase), was one of several motifs. Other key visuals included a bold starburst pattern, glitter, oversize crystal "polka-dot" embroidery, rococo bell sleeves, and peplum skirt and dress hems.

In other words, there was a lot going on. Much of this House of Holland collection was rather natty—one cue Holland took from the Supremes was to create coordinating cocktail frocks and evening coats, and as a general matter there was a dressiness to the tailoring and showy sleeves and flounces. As is his wont, Holland pushed that attitude right to the edge of camp. But then, his girl wouldn't have it any other way.