The emphasis in Resort collections is always on the commercial. That's the deal. Which creates a bit of a dilemma, one feels, when it comes to Resort collections from a brand like Helmut Lang. In its present incarnation, under the direction of Michael and Nicole Colovos, Helmut Lang is a very commercial label; beyond that, it has straightforwardness in its DNA, courtesy of the original Herr Lang himself.

At any rate, the Resort collection the Colovoses presented today was altogether fine, but perhaps too matter-of-fact. The designers did well to approach the transitional season from the point of view of making mix-and-match, layerable clothes—this was not a Resort collection offering fantasies of early summers or tropical vacations, but one that dealt with the reality of not-quite-hot, not-quite-cold, changeable spring weather in a sophisticated and streetwise way. And the collection was strong too in its fabrications: The Colovoses had some particularly nice leather pieces here, like a slick snakeskin-embossed coat or a T-shirt with hand-embroidered leather bits arranged to look like crocodile. They also made measured use of technical materials; their strapless dress and adapted tuxedo looked especially sharp with a vinyl-like shine. Those items made you wish that the Colovoses had seen fit to take more risks with the rest of their looks—even in a Resort collection, a little nerve is welcome.