June 04, 2013 New York
At any rate, the Resort collection the Colovoses presented today was altogether fine, but perhaps too matter-of-fact. The designers did well to approach the transitional season from the point of view of making mix-and-match, layerable clothes—this was not a Resort collection offering fantasies of early summers or tropical vacations, but one that dealt with the reality of not-quite-hot, not-quite-cold, changeable spring weather in a sophisticated and streetwise way. And the collection was strong too in its fabrications: The Colovoses had some particularly nice leather pieces here, like a slick snakeskin-embossed coat or a T-shirt with hand-embroidered leather bits arranged to look like crocodile. They also made measured use of technical materials; their strapless dress and adapted tuxedo looked especially sharp with a vinyl-like shine. Those items made you wish that the Colovoses had seen fit to take more risks with the rest of their looks—even in a Resort collection, a little nerve is welcome.