Crinkled duchesse satin might sound like a hippie bride's dream fabric, but for Jenni Kayne's Resort effort, it's every woman's reality. Rendered in a bra top and pencil skirt, that old-fashioned material was quite hip—and a nice foil to Kayne's otherwise dark collection. "It was a rigorous color palette," said Kayne of the black, red, rust, and hot-pink scheme; that rigor gave the North African–inspired wardrobe a strong identity. Not only was it cohesive, it was smart looking, too. A burgundy plaid sheer button-up and trousers were pulled together by black leather trimming at the waist. And a leather dress in oxblood was more earnest than wild thanks to its modest wrap silhouette.

"For resort, it's always a mix of real clothes, clothes for parties, and clothes that girls pack on vacation," said Kayne. She folded the latter two into one, pairing her maxi dresses with a sheer black capelet that worked just as well with a maillot.