June 14, 2013 London
The presence of Memphis was strongest in the artificial color scheme. Saunders likes a clash. Pistachio and chartreuse was his favorite. In fact, shades of green clashing with everything was a leitmotif, all the way to a printed chiffon evening gown that shaded together leaf green and black. It was borderline lurid, but that is quintessential Saunders. It energizes him, and one reason this collection worked so well is that he'd found the fabrics to match. The key was body-conscious bonding: double-face jerseys heat-pressed with big, blowsy tulips, silks, and cottons backed with jersey, and sheaths with raw-edged hems bonded so that they, too, had a peculiar dimensionality. "I've been working on that for a year," Saunders said.
"A real Resort collection," he called it, and he wasn't wrong. These clothes will sing in the sunshine—the harder the glare, the better.