"I want my clothes to make a girl feel cool," said Jonathan Simkhai about what he wants his brand to be. Just a few seasons in, and the boy is bringing it. For resort, cool wasn't just about sporty leather bomber jackets and silk track pants, although those recent looks are still around. It was about a new, sexier confidence, represented in a skinny silver leather pencil skirt hitting just below the knee, a fitted denim spaghetti-strap dress seamed in white cotton piping, and a gold metallic tweed bra top paired with a matching skirt. Bad for the basketball court, but great for the VIP party after the game.

Simkhai also played quite a bit with denim, taking on the patchwork trend and making it his own by keeping the light and dark squares and rectangles symmetrical on every top and bottom. A collared bomber jacket was the most successful piece in the series; the mix of gray heather knit, denim, and white leather accents paired well with a denim mini. (That gray heather, by the way, was fashioned after a barn Simkhai encountered in upstate New York—it was made to resemble the whitewashed paint chipping off and gray wood peeking through.) One element the designer chose to stay away from this season: bright colors. "I wanted the collection to be a palate cleanser," he said. It was a smart move. After all, the last thing his cool girl requires is a pop of color.