Resort is the first season that Maiyet founder Kristy Caylor is back in the designer driver's seat after the ethical fashion company parted ways with Gabriella Zanzani, who had been taking runway bows for a few seasons. That kind of shake-up can destabilize a young brand, but it's a positive in this case. With aesthetics and intentions aligned, Caylor was free to interpret a handful of eclectic influences. Her lineup riffed on the idea of uniforms, the work of the Ghanaian sculptor El Anatsui, and twenties lingerie. She has good timing; Africa and the twenties are getting play in other collections this month. Here, a schoolboy's Mackintosh was cut from a bonded geometric Varanasi silk pattern; chemise dresses were decorated with wavy, block-print designs; and a crop top and its matching bloomers were hand-knit by artisans in Bolivia.

With its emphasis on the artisanal, Maiyet hasn't lured many minimalists. But that may change; Caylor proved she could do understated in an interesting way. Cases in point: an unconstructed jacket worn with an asymmetric tunic and pleated trousers, and a clever take on the jumpsuit that looked like a drop-waist dress with a cutaway hem.