Markus Lupfer has developed a taste for the general. Last season, the inspiration for his collection was the magnificently non-particular topic Art. This time out, Lupfer was feeling Music. Of all kinds, from all places. The predominance of check here indicated a debt to grunge; elsewhere, Lupfer's sequin print and mirrored paillettes put you more in mind of the showgirl costumes that pop tarts have worn onstage since time immemorial (or the sixties, at any rate). You could also see a bit of punk in Lupfer's zip-articulated skirts, but that's probably a theme best laid to rest for a while.

At any rate, this collection looked sharp. The shapes were nothing mind-blowing but nicely judged in their proportions and easy-feeling without being sloppy, while Lupfer's check had a nice hint of acid in it, and his fabrications were canny, with the same zippered skirts done in yellow silk shantung and a squishy red technical jersey. The choices all felt very specific—in contrast to the inspiration.