Designer Misha Nonoo
has a muse: an English girl, one not much unlike Nonoo herself, who has a bit of wanderlust and a taste for the eclectic. This season, Nonoo's semi-autobiographical design strategy led her back to the tomboyish attitude she recalls from her English boarding school days, and then, less far back, to a trip to Miami Art Basel last year, where she encountered work by James Turrell and Sol LeWitt. The boarding school influence was legible in Nonoo's boxy knits and slouchy trousers, the best of which came in the rather fancy fabrication of silk charmeuse. There was also a schoolgirlishness to the collection's skirts and dresses with kicked-out hems, some of which were elaborated with transparent panels inspired, in part, by Turrell. The artist made for a good reference point—the collection's dégradé stripe print, which was redolent of his work, was a highlight, as were Nonoo's lightweight sweaters, with their windows of sheer microfilament knit.
All in all, the collection had a lot of charm, though you had to wish that Nonoo had infused a little more of its whimsy into her relatively new range of evening dresses and gowns. Apparently, the eveningwear is doing well at sales, but it could do with a bit more idiosyncrasy.