This collection marked a bit of a turning point for Mother of Pearl. Standard operating procedure for this brand finds creative director Maia Norman and head designer Amy Powney collaborating with a different artist each season, and adapting a clutch of staple silhouettes to suit that artist's work. This time out, working with the husband-and-wife team of Biggs & Collings, Norman and Powney opted to use the artwork in a less literal way, treating it as source material and giving it their own, very loose riff. Effectively, Biggs & Collings' contribution was limited to one triangle print and the palette it inspired.

Freedom to play served Norman and Powney well: Their vintage fifties-era floral prints had a real pop and looked good paired with leopard print, geometrics, and the signature Mother of Pearl stripe. The all-or-nothing mix of color and pattern refreshed the brand's familiar silhouettes, and the fifties florals came off very spiffy on some of the more sculptured looks, like a cocoon coat or a flounced skirt. Mother of Pearl will continue to be a brand built on artist collaborations; that's its DNA. Powney said as much when she presented the collection today. But it was nice to see what happens when she and Norman get to follow their own muse.