June 12, 2013 London
Marios Schwab has been making a name for himself on the red carpet of late, so it wasn't surprising that his new collection featured an assortment of entrance-making gowns. What did come as a surprise—a pleasant one—was the casual mien of these clothes. Schwab got into the zone with his little crepe dresses, with their seemingly stapled-on sleeves; though formal, these pieces had a sense of spontaneity in their construction that made them come off as distinctly un-stuffy. He also hit on a clever idea with his cracked looks, like a strapless white cocktail frock with a fissure running down the front from which plastic blossoms emerged. It put you in mind of the way flowers will push through the pavement sometimes. The grittiness of the reference transformed a fairly standard look—a fitted cocktail frock with floral embellishment—into something with the frisson of profundity. Not all of Schwab's innovations worked as well; the gossamer lace skirt, worn over jeans, was a bit of a head-scratcher, for instance. But Schwab was more on than off here.
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