There's always something a little sly about anything designed by Alessandro Dell'Acqua. Bourgeois with a twist says it best. His Resort collection for No. 21 was no exception. Dell'Acqua mentioned Anouk Aimée as a reference point. A smoky-voiced seductress wearing her man's shirt and not much else? Yep, there her essence was in No. 21, with the designer's signature mix of naughty and nice. Like the proper poplin shirts topped by a coat-dress in leopard-print pony or a shift trimmed in showgirl feathers. The pleats of a skirt in sober gray wool concealed a deep slit. Its accompanying palm-tree-print sweatshirt was jersey bonded with neoprene. Sporty enough, except it spun round to reveal a lace back. Dell'Acqua is partial to such unexpected details. A properly girlish gingham sundress also turned out to be bonded in neoprene.

But these felt like notions the designer has visited often. If there was news, it was in the collection's graphic quality: the bold floral prints, the toile de Jouy, even some tie-dye, confirming a long-held suspicion that Dell'Acqua's madam has a streak of surf rat.