Oscar de la Renta
May 21, 2013 New York
The intimacy of the proceedings was apropos of the offerings at hand. Close inspection was required to determine if the colorful flowers blossoming on a Prince of Wales-check skirtsuit were printed or embroidered. As it turned out, there was a bit of both. There's never a shortage of embellishment chez Oscar, of course, but the mood this season seemed particularly buoyant, with nods to mid-century couture. The models' lips were painted classic red, they wore net bows in their ponytails, and their pumps often matched their dresses.
A peplum bisected a slim sheath, and a navy appliquéd silk faille top, which he called a "French jacket," flared out in an A-line above a pair of tapering trousers. Silhouettes were exaggerated for evening, too, via bubble skirts (complete with a brooch accenting the waistline in back) and Watteau backs. The collection's most striking number was a column gown in indigo silk faille with jet beading down the front; the cut was slim, but the effect was still positively grand.