Without the pressure and expense of organizing a runway show, many designers find Resort is a good time to experiment. As they put it, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos' undertaking this season was "to add to our spectrum, and to express the way we work with different classes of materials." That meant there was a lot of news in this Peter Pilotto collection. Jersey dresses color-blocked in geometric patterns were a departure for the duo, but you wouldn't know it from the assured way they pulled them off. Same goes for sweater dresses with knitting techniques that mimicked the bold prints they're known for. The tailored pieces in floral jacquards and matching lace also felt like a surprise, and a welcome one.

Of course, printed dresses are the brand's raison d'être, so this collection wasn't short on them, either. Pilotto and De Vos gave them a subtle Asian spin, reproducing a black-and-white photograph of a seventies ikebana arrangement in glorious color on the bodice of a lace dress, and manipulating traditional temari balls into parabolic prints on others. On different dresses, lush tropical plants seemed to spill over the vertical white lines of a fence. They were quite accomplished, but those kinds of architectural prints have been done before by other London designers. This editor, at least, liked a simpler frock, with laser-cut lace leaves that created a delicately unfurling asymmetric hem.