June 05, 2013 New York
For Resort, a sunburst accordion-pleated skirt in a color-blocked cloque seersucker and a draped, A-line silk T-shirt top exemplified this newfound interest in movement, even if the round-shoulder jacket that topped them was a callback to Fall. Where last season had a ladylike politesse, the mood here felt looser, which is very much in keeping with the general direction of the collections this week so far. Men's pants slouched from the hip bones and pooled at the ankles. The skirt on their de rigueur skirt suit was emphatically A-line, where it would've tapered in the past. And an evening dress (beaded and sack-shaped vaguely à la the twenties) peeked imperfectly several inches below the hem of a zigzag tweed cocoon coat.
A pair of draped little black dresses offered a preview of Spring. They didn't hew to the same relaxed lines, but even if they were more rigorous in their fit, they still had that ineffable Proenza Schouler cool.