"Surf's up for the Pucci girl." Introducing his new Resort collection this morning, Peter Dundas said that every look got the flat-shoe test. "If it didn't look good with a flat shoe, it didn't go in the collection. And no checked-in baggage, either. It's got to fit into a carry-on, even evening dresses."

There was a bigger focus on daywear than usual here, but easy separates are no stretch for Dundas—the baby-pink blazer he was wearing aside, the designer is a self-proclaimed "natural beach bum." It showed in the clever way he paired a sporty neoprene crop top with a couture-quality beaded and fringed mini, or tossed a lemon-yellow baby-doll dress over a printed bikini top. A few dresses with scuba seaming and chunky plastic zips kept the theme alive, as did the show's strappy neoprene sandals. And in what is surely a Pucci first, Dundas even did jeans, shredded with holes and customized with beaded waistbands.

Blazers were bold-shouldered and cropped, in strong colors that lent an urban edge to the collection. But the beach is where the designer's heart was this season. It was easy to fall for a mosaic-print caftan in sheer lilac with crystal beading at the neckline.