"No theme," Marcus Wainwright promised at the start of our Rag & Bone Resort appointment, "just clothes." Depending on your point of view, that's either refreshing or inauspicious. We're on the side of refreshing. Hanging on a rack was a camel-hair chesterfield that was just about perfect in its simplicity, and there were other winning options where that came from, including a mohair cocoon color-blocked in charcoal and bordeaux, along with a fire-engine-red style bisected by a zipper at the hips. Unzip it and the car coat becomes a boxy interpretation of a bomber.

That kind of versatility was built into pieces like their velvet track pants with military braiding down the side. "They're our Juicy pant," Wainwright joked, "without 'surf patrol' across the ass." Meaning you're just as likely to wear them on a lazy Sunday as you are during the week. Leather pants that followed the lines of a slim pair of sweats also looked good.

Just the essentials. Trend hunters will have to wait until September. Wainwright shared this little nugget about Spring ’14: "Little House on the Prairie meets samurai."