June 19, 2013
Glamorama is now and forever the Cavalli métier, but for Resort, the house looked to India to leaven its usual animal prints and party dresses. The leopard doesn't change its spots, but the result looked positively boho, which freshened up the collection considerably. Indian-influenced embroideries and inset mini mirrors sweetened longer, looser flowing dresses. The most elaborate among them in the evening passage were impressively detailed yet steadfastly uncorseted. Jeans and moto trousers came in for the same treatment—the former getting emblazoned with what the house called a Gujarati print—and the leather pants that were once a staple of the house made their return after several seasons away in an ethnic-inflected version. Opening looks layered animal print on animal print to reassure longtime Cavallites, but the finest of the lot were the gauzy embroidered dresses. That, and a cotton-canvas embroidered jacket that looked ready for tropical temperatures (and not necessarily those of the nearest packed discotheque). Cotton, in fact, was one of the dominant fabrics of the collection overall. It's true what they say: Travel does change you.