The use of PVC in fashion tends to set off alarm bells. Something fetish this way comes. And hot on the heels of punk's big year—the punks loved repurposing the stuff and symbols of S and M—a lesser designer might've turned her head toward kink. But when Roksanda Ilincic
started scattering her Resort collection with PVC, the result was nothing but sweet. She made it into opalescent flowers that dotted a foam-bonded coat and a cocktail frock of gray marl. Flowers cropped up everywhere, on embossed jacquard, and laser-cut out of neoprene, too. Her colors, as usual, were eye-popping, and her volumes, as usual, cranked to eleven. But the essential sweetness endured. So did a grown-up glamour, which is a neat trick to pull off when you're robing a woman in a pup tent's worth of sea-foam green and baby blue. What Ilincic asks herself as a designer, she said, is one key question: "What is comfortable for a woman in our age?" Comfort isn't the stuff of fetish. (Indeed, it's often the opposite of the point.) But as she proved here, it can lead the way to desire.