Having doubled down on ladylike for Fall, Marco Zanini returned to eccentricity for Resort. It's hard to imagine another designer with the temerity to work up a stretch-brocade gown with an allover crab motif. He rode the seaside vibe through oysters and rays, too, in prints on clothes and leather appliqués on accessories.

There was plenty of vacation-friendly ease among the pajama sets, polo tops, and "ROCHAS" logo sweaters tied around the models' waists, like gift-shop swag from some high-fashion resort. Still, you came back to the crabby eveningwear. It summed up the poles of Rochas: the baroque and the burlesque. It's there in Zanini's silk piqué ball gown with a T-shirt thrown on top; in the A-line skirt, a standout from Fall redone in waterproof, silk-lined vinyl; and in the new technique, dubbed pressata, to achieve a crumpled look in silk. The secret? It's not an embossed pattern or fabric treatment. It's simply crumpled silk, three times as much as would make a normal skirt. Waste not, want not. Now that's luxe.