June 10, 2013 New York
There was plenty of vacation-friendly ease among the pajama sets, polo tops, and "ROCHAS" logo sweaters tied around the models' waists, like gift-shop swag from some high-fashion resort. Still, you came back to the crabby eveningwear. It summed up the poles of Rochas: the baroque and the burlesque. It's there in Zanini's silk piqué ball gown with a T-shirt thrown on top; in the A-line skirt, a standout from Fall redone in waterproof, silk-lined vinyl; and in the new technique, dubbed pressata, to achieve a crumpled look in silk. The secret? It's not an embossed pattern or fabric treatment. It's simply crumpled silk, three times as much as would make a normal skirt. Waste not, want not. Now that's luxe.