This was a sharp collection. The starting point for the Sportmax
team was Executive Model,
Ron Jude's photography book of nineties-era businessmen, and their riff on that inspiration managed to be both genuinely respectful of Wall Street's sartorial codes and genuinely feminine-feeling as well. That's a neat trick to pull off. The presentation-opening coat established the Sportmax strategy, adapting that ur-masculine garment, the trenchcoat, by giving it a cinched waist and a dramatic flare; elsewhere, fluid dresses and skirts gave boardroom pinstripe a sensual spin. The clothes didn't feel casual, but there was a nice attitude of offhandedness here, with the slouchy graphic knitwear packing an understated punch.
The exception to the collection's strength was its prints of numbers: The Sportmax-ers were trying to make a point about the businessman's obsessions with numbers, but it wasn't asserted interestingly enough to compensate for the fact that most women just don't want to walk around with giant digits on their clothes. Now dudes, on the other hand, do love a football or basketball jersey. Fodder for another season of masculine/feminine