June 10, 2013 New York
For his sophomore outing at Sonia Rykiel, artistic director Geraldo da Conceicao mined the French label's seventies archives and reinterpreted signatures for a result that was lighthearted, romantic, and 100 percent on brand. Feminine knits, bien sûr, took center stage, with da Conceicao whipping up slinky tank dresses that hit just below the knee in a variety of fresh sorbet hues like mint, citron yellow, and powder pink. There were also playful takes on the classic argyle sweater and intarsia pullovers featuring a pair of lovebirds. All that whimsy was balanced out by menswear-inspired prints (a major Fall trend) like the Prince of Wales check that appeared on a relaxed trench and baggy pair of Bermudas. Several pieces, such as a boxy bonded-cotton jacket and a pair of cool white pleather culottes, had interesting, away-from-the-body proportions that also kept the look from being too precious. All things considered, this thoughtful Resort collection was a win for both the new designer and the house that Sonia built.
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