At Tsumori Chisato
's Resort presentation today, a school of stylized squid covered a trenchcoat, and abstracted, embellished clamshells floated atop swingy dresses. The designer and her gal pals were rendered in cartoonish glee against the backdrop of Venice on a diaphanous number with a ruched Empire waist, and she also appeared on a midi-length shift, surrounded by giant seaweed fronds. Chisato's clothes are very much the product of her dream world. This isn't a new direction for her; it's just the type of vision that can occasionally swallow you whole. When used more judiciously, the sea world theme allowed Chisato to work in some playful details, like the clams that doubled as pockets on an A-line coat. The Venice story also played out nicely in hazy print skirts and pants. A net was interpreted on a sea-foam dress as a grid of shimmery gold, and a coral pattern was certainly much livelier than a conventional stripe. Still, it's telling that the strongest statement of them all was a black and white dress with cropped bell sleeves that bears no relation to marine life. Chisato is so attached to her naiveté that perhaps she doesn't realize how good she can be when she's on drier land.