Tess Giberson being Tess Giberson, it came as no surprise to hear her describe her Resort collection as "loosely based on the philosophy of the Bauhaus—art, craft, and technology." But despite the conceptual trappings, the clothes had plenty of unfussy appeal, like her hacked-off bombers and blazers and a great, less-is-more jumpsuit.

As usual, Giberson is interested in the ways in which things are made. The season's print—from which the collection's palette was derived—is a watercolor, created by her husband, of weaving writ large. Sometimes this interest in construction can seem tricky to a fault. Her "cardigans" and dresses, for instance, don't button up the middle or the back but actually drape twice over the head, creating double necklines and effectively hanging off the wearer. But there was a simpler kind of appeal in her spidery, macramé-inspired sweater and knits with gaping cables: In effect, they say, "Someone knitted me." Giberson expressed nostalgia for the days in which that person could have been her. "I have this compulsion," she said. "I still have to touch them." To scratch the itch, she hand-embroiders a few pieces every season—here, mesh tank tops stitched with abstract webs.