May 29, 2013 New York
There's still softness, in the form of silk culottes that owe a debt to boxing shorts, sheer layers, and printed poplins (very Thakoony in the form of zip-up one-pieces). But it's balanced by more structure, with mini shorts in heather ponte jersey, embroidered bombers, and puffy faille tuxedo skirts. For the daring, he showed muscle-tee eveningwear: a sexy, jeweled sweater-vest fully open at the sides, worn with one of those skirts. The demure can layer. That, in itself, is part of the collection's M.O.: pile and layer, mix and match. Not for nothing, there was a profusion of trenchcoat-style dickeys and asymmetrical-hem sweaters made to be worn over swoop-tailed, oversize poplin shirts.