May 31, 2013 New York
Panichgul said that his challenge to himself was to "elevate the white shirt." He took a casual version of it, the Cuban guayabera, but inserted point d'esprit lace and sheer panels. What looked, from afar, like floaty tiers of shirts actually broke down into collared crop tops hovering over sheer tanks. Throughout, the designer spoke of playing natural and unnatural fabrics against one another, like the pigment-printed raffia that was woven into skirts and sleeveless vests—the finished product had the look of feathers and the feel of grocery bags. As daywear shaded into night, there were jumpsuits in black and a cocoon coat with a bejeweled neckline. And Thakoon being Thakoon, there were a few graphic prints—"Off-kilter," he described them, "not balanced at all." He may be cleaning up, but he's still a far cry from tidy.